I realized long ago that relying solely on base makeup is simply not enough. Even if the foundation is flawless and the concealing is perfect, without the creation of three-dimensional light and shadow, the entire makeup still appears “flat.” Especially under strong lighting or in photographs, if the face lacks dimension and depth, the makeup can look like a blank canvas, with no presence.
Over the years, as I traveled across major European cities for shoots, events, and fashion shows, I was constantly amazed by the girls around me with “outstanding facial structures.” Later, I realized that this exquisite three-dimensional effect wasn’t naturally gifted but was instead achieved through techniques and products, step by step. Today, I want to talk about how I personally advanced from “only knowing how to apply foundation” to mastering a “three-dimensional makeup look.”
1. Where Does the Three-Dimensional Makeup Effect Come From?
What we often call “contour makeup” essentially uses light and shadow to mimic the highs and lows of bone structure. Asians, generally, have flatter facial features, so it’s key to use highlighter, contour, and blush—the “three core elements of light and shadow”—to make the face appear deeper and the lines sharper, creating a more refined makeup effect.
I used to think contouring was simply about deepening the contour lines of the face and raising the nose bridge, but I later realized—true advanced makeup emphasizes structure: cheekbones must be lifted, temples must be narrowed, the nose bridge must be accentuated, and the eye sockets must have depth. These effects aren’t achieved through heavy makeup, but rather through refined color techniques.
2. My Core Contour Makeup Steps Breakdown
After much trial and error, I’ve come up with a “structural makeup” routine that works for both daily wear and photoshoots. Each step is crucial:
Step 1: The Base Should Be Light and Transparent to Leave Space for the Following Steps
Many people apply a thick layer of foundation to cover imperfections, but thick foundation actually covers all the natural shadows and highlights on the face, making it look flat. I recommend using a lightweight foundation like Armani Luminous Silk or Estée Lauder Futurist Hydra. These foundations have a moisturizing texture and medium coverage but offer a natural glow. This type of base doesn’t weigh the skin down but instead makes it glow, leaving space for the contour and highlight to be applied seamlessly.
Sometimes, I also choose CC cream or cushion foundation with a glowing finish, especially in summer or for daytime work, when I want a natural and translucent look.
Step 2: Contouring Isn’t Just About Shadows; It’s About “Shaping” the Structure
One of my favorite contour products is the Make Up For Ever Contour Palette. It covers all color tones. I contour the sides of my nose, gently press my temples, outline the jawline, and blend the remaining powder along the hairline to make my face appear smaller. The key is: less is more, and blend to perfection. There must not be any harsh lines!
Contouring’s purpose is to reveal the bone structure of the face, not to paint everything dark. Every stroke of contour should be finely adjusted, following the natural placement and depth of shadows to avoid looking artificial. Areas like under the eyes and around the temples are especially great for creating a three-dimensional effect.
Step 3: Highlighter Is the Soul of a “Bone-Structure Makeup”
I use two types of highlighter: liquid highlighter (like Charlotte Tilbury’s Hollywood Flawless Filter) for large areas like the apple of the cheeks and forehead; and powder highlighter (like Hourglass Ambient) for highlighting the nose bridge, brow bones, and cupid’s bow. I’m very particular about the application method—it’s not about “dotting” but about “brushing to create curves.” Highlighter should be applied with layers, making the effect natural and three-dimensional.
Step 4: Blush Should Precisely Determine Your Style
In 2025, my favorite blush placement is the “diagonal sweep + central blending” technique. This not only lifts the cheeks but also enhances the cheekbone structure. I now commonly use Rare Beauty’s liquid blush and NARS’s powder blush, choosing different colors depending on the makeup style. Soft pink, peach-brown, and nude apricot are the basic shades I use most often.
Blush doesn’t just make your complexion look healthy; it plays an important role in lifting the face’s structure. By sweeping blush across the high points of the cheekbones, it can effectively lift the facial lines, making the face appear more three-dimensional.
3. Hidden Techniques for Contour Makeup: Eyes and Brows Are Key
Many people think contour makeup is just about the contour, but eye makeup and brow shaping actually have a much greater impact on the three-dimensionality of the face.
Eye Makeup Structure Determines Your “Eye Socket Depth”
I like to use cool brown or gray tones as the base, darkening the inner and outer corners of the eyes and using a slight shimmer to brighten the center of the eyelid, creating a natural concave-convex effect. The most important part is the “transition and blending,” especially since Asian eyes tend to be flatter. If the blending is done well, it’ll give the eyes a “lifted” effect.
The depth of the eye socket is key to creating a three-dimensional eye makeup look. By blending eyeshadow colors together, the eyes appear more layered, and the three-dimensional effect is enhanced. The subtle blending of eyeshadow can significantly increase the depth and expression of the eyes, making them look more captivating.
Eyebrows Determine the Bone Structure Impression
After switching from flat eyebrows to a more natural arched brow with a slight peak, my face looks much more three-dimensional. I use a brow pencil to shape them, then fill in any gaps with brow powder, and finish off with brow gel to create a uniform color, giving my face more of a “bone structure” look.
4. High-End Makeup Requires “Quality Products”
I’ve gradually realized that high-end makeup doesn’t mean heavy makeup. It’s a comprehensive expression of product texture and technique. The following products are essential for my three-dimensional makeup look in 2025:
- Highlighters: Charlotte Tilbury Liquid Highlighter, Hourglass Powder Highlighter (available on Selfridges and Amazon)
- Contouring Products: Make Up For Ever Contour Palette, Fenty Beauty Match Stix
- Blushes: Rare Beauty Liquid Blush, SUQQU Powder Blush
- Eyeshadow Palettes: Tom Ford, Dior 5-Color, Viseart Neutral Matte
- Base Makeup: Armani Luminous Silk, Estée Lauder Futurist Hydra
Each product’s selection is crucial for the three-dimensional effect and refinement of your makeup. By using high-quality makeup products and applying the right techniques, you can create a delicate and deeply structured makeup look.
5. Not Just Exquisite, But an Expression of Attitude
Many times, makeup isn’t just about “looking good.” It’s also a manifestation of self-control. Every time I do my makeup with attention to detail, it’s not for others to see, but so that I can look in the mirror and see a clearer, more defined version of myself.
Contouring makeup has taught me that beauty isn’t about “covering up,” but about “showing.” Using light, shadow, and technique to reveal the natural layers of the face is the most authentic, enduring beauty.
6. Future Makeup Trends: Light Makeup with Strong Structural Effects
I believe that after 2025, makeup trends will increasingly emphasize “real skin + light and shadow structure.” People will no longer pursue the “perfect makeup” that conceals every flaw, but will prefer faces that have a bit of “bone structure” and “natural curves.”
So, if you’re still just applying base makeup, why not try adding a bit of contour, highlighter, and blush? You’ll find that you don’t need plastic surgery to create a more defined and recognizable version of yourself.
